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TLR 200 Honda footrest upgrade

TLR footrest upgrade complete

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ClassicTrial picture,  TLR footrest upgrade complete, click to enlarge click pop-up to close.
The Honda TLR in common with all original twin-shock machines comes equipped with narrow footrests, that are not ideally positioned  for the best possible control in modern competition. We will show here how to go about fitting modern type wide footrests, in a better position, and how to add strength to the frame near to the footrest mountings, which is often weakened by corrosion.

What is shown here does require basic engineering skills, and someone who is  relatively experienced with MIG welding. If you are not confidant of carrying out this work yourself, then it can be carried out by any competent fabricator or by  Classictrial, as part of one of our 2010 upgrade packages for the TLR Honda's. We would not recommend any sort of major chassis work, being attempted by people without the relative experience outlined above!

First thing to do is to remove brake pedal,  old OE footrests, and if bike is still complete its also a good idea to take off the fuel tank, and all plastics. Then using an angle grinder fitted with a 1mm cutting disc, cut off the ears of the U shaped footrest mounting brackets. Next step is to change the 1mm cutting disc for a flap disc, and use this to remove the bottom part of the footrest mounting bracket, which will leave a hole approx 14mm diameter through the frame.

Corroded TLR footrest mounting area (damage cut out)

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ClassicTrial picture,  Corroded TLR footrest mounting area (damage cut out), click to enlarge click pop-up to close.
You then need to assess whether or not the footrest/swinging arm mount pressing has been weakened by corrosion or not. Corrosion here can mean footrest mounts tearing out of the frame entirely, and this corrosion occurs due to the inside of the frame filling with water. Checking for rot is carried out by tapping the area pictured,with a small ball pein hammer, and seeing if dents are easily formed. If denting is noted, then the steel will be weakened by rusting and repair will be required.

If repair is needed then the area shown in the photo must be removed entirely, and this can be done through careful use of a 1mm cutting disc. When the damaged metal has been removed its possible to assess the condition of the inside of the frame, and to see whether or not any more corroded metal must be removed. The next step is to make repair sections using 3mm mild steel sheet, and carefully form them to exactly the same shape as the metal that's been removed.

Pressing repaired and 5mm strip welded to frame

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ClassicTrial picture, Pressing repaired and 5mm strip welded to frame , click to enlarge click pop-up to close.
Repair sections must then be carefully welded into the frame, with attention being paid to avoid undue distortion and to ensure the weld is a very good one, as failure here could obviously have very serious results. When the repair sections have been fitted, its a good idea to linish the welded areas with a medium grit flap wheel. Next step is to weld 2 lengths of 5mm mild steel strip onto the frame, as shown in the  picture.

Wings fitted to 5mm strip (rear view)

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ClassicTrial picture,  Wings fitted to 5mm strip (rear view), click to enlarge click pop-up to close.
When the strips are in place, the strengthening wings pictured can be welded into place and the welds linished off. Footrest brackets can then be fitted, and the hole through the frame where the original rests were fitted can be used as a datum point to ensure they are in the same place on both sides. Obviously the angle of the rests also needs to be the same on both sides, and Classictrial uses a digital angle gauge to check this, but it is possible to use a spirit level if the frame can be clamped securely in a vice so it cant move.

Its a good idea to weld the new footrest mounting tab a little inboard on the right hand side, which provides a bit more clearance for the kick-start lever, and may mean there is no need to heat and bend the lever to clear the end of the longer modern type footrest. In general the stock brake pedal stop can be adjusted, so the brake works fine with rests relocated in this way, but obviously this is something that needs to be carefully checked before painting or powder-coating.   

Finally before welding anything, double check measurements and make 100% certain things are in the right place, as its very easy to make a mistake, which can be time consuming to sort out properly.

Inside a badly corroded TLR frame

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ClassicTrial picture,  Inside a badly corroded TLR frame, click to enlarge click pop-up to close.

* Finally please remember that all of the above information is provided on the strict proviso that any modifications or changes not carried out specifically by Classictrial, are not guaranteed or warranteed in any way, and are entirely the responsibility of the individual carrying them out, and that Classictrial are not responsible in any circumstances for damage or injury that may occur as a result of poor workmanship *